Have you moved to 1/4" saddle depth on all of your chairs or just for this one? I'm working up the courage to make my own design decisions on chairs and I'd be curious if theres any rationale behind the depth. Either way, can't wait to make this one!
Suggest you forget the pointy tumor. Adds weight and zero comfort. A ball buster if you go big. I abandoned a long time ago. If the front of your seat looks too straight and boring without the tumor add a subtle curve about 3/8th deep centered on your centerline. I think adds to overall look and eliminates a bit more weight. I started doing this a few years ago when I had a crumbly knot right at the center of the seat slab. Curved the front of the seat, got rid of the problem and have stuck with that shape ever since.
Nope. In fact, it's an asset as it starts to remove material from the cups. I've never had it splinter so badly as to cross the line. I'm sure it could happen, and when it does I'll just plane the front edge of the seat until the splintering is gone.
Chris, your writing is infectious and inspiring. the more i read, the more i want to try making a chair. what tool set (for saddling) do you recommend for a first time chairmaker? the scorp and travishers you generally recommend are nearing a grand combined. now i have no problem investing that kind of dough if i end up loving chair making and make a full dining set... but if i make one and go, meh I'd rather stick with other areas of the craft, my wife and i will be sad. what do you recommend?
Jesse, if it helps, I saddled my first (and so far, only) chair just the WW travisher & a scraper. I'm sure it took a little longer, but it gave me plenty practice using the tool. And I've found other uses for the travisher in other non-chair projects, so don't worry about it being a one trick pony.
I've since saved up some clams and made it through the wait list for the Barr Tools scorp. Can't wait to clear out my backlog and use it to make a set of chairs for our dining room.
Chairmaking is a significant part of my income (most of my income from 2023 to be honest). So I am particular about my tools. You don't have to spend a lot to saddle a seat.
If I were a beginner looking to give it a go, I'd get a travisher from Windsor Workshops in the UK. You can use that as both a scorp and travisher (the blade is adjustable). THen finish with sanding and scraping.
Chris, at one point, you wrote a blog post about travishers and mentioned that the Windsor Workshop deserved a dedicated entry because of its singularity. Will you still consider writing it? I would appreciate it; mine sits unused because I prefer a scorp for the rough (seeing the blade is a big plus) and can’t get to terms with it for fine cuts.
I did this video for the Wood Whisperer, but I'll put it on the list of things to film. It's mostly about learning to take a light cut with the tool and setting expectations. You'll probably have to do more sanding/scraping with this route. But I've done it multiple times in various hardwoods – cherry, oak and ash.
About seats: I have riven maple but can only get 4-5” wide boards. Is it okay to laminate them to make up the 16” x 20” area? If so, would hide or piggly no wiggly work alright, or would you recommend PVA? I do plan to put floating tenons or dowels between them like suggested in “The Stick Chair Book.”
Thank you so much for sharing this process! I find myself looking forward to each installment more than the last.
You can definitely glue up seats from narrower boards. I do it all the time. I usually use PVA (for speed) with seats because I might glue up eight at a time. Any glue will do.
I use it like a spokeshave, like cleaning up some shallow coves
Have you moved to 1/4" saddle depth on all of your chairs or just for this one? I'm working up the courage to make my own design decisions on chairs and I'd be curious if theres any rationale behind the depth. Either way, can't wait to make this one!
This seat is thinner than usual, so I went for a shallow saddle. I think a 1/2"-deep saddle would make me worry a tad.
Thanks!
Suggest you forget the pointy tumor. Adds weight and zero comfort. A ball buster if you go big. I abandoned a long time ago. If the front of your seat looks too straight and boring without the tumor add a subtle curve about 3/8th deep centered on your centerline. I think adds to overall look and eliminates a bit more weight. I started doing this a few years ago when I had a crumbly knot right at the center of the seat slab. Curved the front of the seat, got rid of the problem and have stuck with that shape ever since.
Is spelching the front lip of the seat ever an issue?
Nope. In fact, it's an asset as it starts to remove material from the cups. I've never had it splinter so badly as to cross the line. I'm sure it could happen, and when it does I'll just plane the front edge of the seat until the splintering is gone.
Chris, your writing is infectious and inspiring. the more i read, the more i want to try making a chair. what tool set (for saddling) do you recommend for a first time chairmaker? the scorp and travishers you generally recommend are nearing a grand combined. now i have no problem investing that kind of dough if i end up loving chair making and make a full dining set... but if i make one and go, meh I'd rather stick with other areas of the craft, my wife and i will be sad. what do you recommend?
Jesse, if it helps, I saddled my first (and so far, only) chair just the WW travisher & a scraper. I'm sure it took a little longer, but it gave me plenty practice using the tool. And I've found other uses for the travisher in other non-chair projects, so don't worry about it being a one trick pony.
I've since saved up some clams and made it through the wait list for the Barr Tools scorp. Can't wait to clear out my backlog and use it to make a set of chairs for our dining room.
what other non-chair projects do you use the travishers for?
Chairmaking is a significant part of my income (most of my income from 2023 to be honest). So I am particular about my tools. You don't have to spend a lot to saddle a seat.
If I were a beginner looking to give it a go, I'd get a travisher from Windsor Workshops in the UK. You can use that as both a scorp and travisher (the blade is adjustable). THen finish with sanding and scraping.
https://thewindsorworkshop.co.uk/travisher/
The other option is to make one on Claire Minihan's pattern.
https://store.popularwoodworking.com/products/make-your-own-spokeshave-travisher
John Brown and Chris Williams saddled seats using spokeshaves that they modified by grinding the soles (you'll have to chase that one on your own).
Lots of options that don't require lots of money.
Chris, at one point, you wrote a blog post about travishers and mentioned that the Windsor Workshop deserved a dedicated entry because of its singularity. Will you still consider writing it? I would appreciate it; mine sits unused because I prefer a scorp for the rough (seeing the blade is a big plus) and can’t get to terms with it for fine cuts.
I did this video for the Wood Whisperer, but I'll put it on the list of things to film. It's mostly about learning to take a light cut with the tool and setting expectations. You'll probably have to do more sanding/scraping with this route. But I've done it multiple times in various hardwoods – cherry, oak and ash.
Thanks! I was getting massive tear out in elm, so I put it aside.
Well... elm hates you, and it wants you to die.
About seats: I have riven maple but can only get 4-5” wide boards. Is it okay to laminate them to make up the 16” x 20” area? If so, would hide or piggly no wiggly work alright, or would you recommend PVA? I do plan to put floating tenons or dowels between them like suggested in “The Stick Chair Book.”
Thank you so much for sharing this process! I find myself looking forward to each installment more than the last.
You can definitely glue up seats from narrower boards. I do it all the time. I usually use PVA (for speed) with seats because I might glue up eight at a time. Any glue will do.
Awesome, thank you!