I've been a vegan for 40 years and a novice hand tool woodworker for the last 6. It's been an interesting journey exploring traditional methods and materials and investigating the alternatives (if there are any). I was pleased to discover Crubber, and that Titebond Hide Glue is animal free, but everything has a cost/benefit ratio when it has a chemical manufacturing process or it comes wrapped in plastic. I know a piece of leather will last a lot longer than a human-made product and will biodegrade in landfill but in the 21st Century our food chain is such an industrial complex that very little could be classed as a by-product anymore.
On the other hand, at my age and with my tiny carbon footprint I can afford to relax a little and just enjoy the woodwork!
I am a huge fan of boiled linseed oil – the "real" stuff – specifically, Tried and True brand. It has zero chemical driers, is as fool-proof of a finish as I have come across, and looks great when dried. Three to five very thin coats, and "Bob's your Uncle", as our cousins from across the pond like to say. I categorically refuse to use the big box/hardware store stuff (usually in a blue can) with heavy metal driers.
If I need something with abrasion and chemical resistance, then I look toward alkyd resin varnish or shellac, depending on the end use. Where I live (New Mexico, USA), shellac is a challenge to use, because of the heat and very low humidity (8% to maybe 20%) during most of the year. Through much trial and lots of errors, I've found that increasing the alcohol significantly works pretty well, so that the shellac has time to level before all of the alcohol evaporates.
It's a good thing you're not looking for affirmation because this isn't one. I am looking forward to being able to learn about alternatives to modern finishes and glues though. It begs the question, why did these products fall by the wayside?
Hi Kurt - having worked as a commercial finisher, why = time and money. The first spraying lacquers utilised the huge redundant stockpiles of nitro from WWI armaments manufacturing, dovetailing with mass production of consumables from cars to furnishings. Since then it’s been a race to the bottom = speed of application + short drying times + minimal performance. Anything we buy are crumbs from the table of mass manufacturing. And the holy grail of the single perfect finish? Definitely a myth. I choose a finish that is least compromised for that making process and use of object while avoiding known toxins. I like my liver - it comes in handy.
You mention turning back the clock to1935. I think you used that date as a general date for pre chemical 'revolution'. What I mean is, are there significant differences in finishes from say, 1800 to 1930? Or, are you just saying 1935 is the inflection point?
Whatever the new book becomes, you may not name it 'The Anarchist .....', because you're exhausted of trying to explain the concept of what you mean by that term. But it seems to me it would be an appropriate title. We need to get away from the plastics and chemicals from these mega chemical and plastic companies that have done tremendous harm to our water and food supply with nothing more than a slap on the wrist once and a while because of the power they wield politically. And, most of the time, the older products are superior, and these companies spend so much effort to patent and then to convince you their materials are revolutionary, and you must use them.
Except lead. They used a lot of lead in paint before the 30s. Is it natural? Yeah. Is it good for you to be rubbing your hands on the arms of the stick chair with 1940s lead paint all over it? Maybe not.
I don’t think so. But it does contain metallic evaporators. Maybe not great to be touching. Once cured there’s no issue. Or use Allbäck boiled linseed oil. The dryers are less than 1% manganese salt and a couple of acids. Or use raw linseed oil.
In a pinch, you can get a pretty thick piece of bone from a craft store in the form of a "bone folder" (or scorer) meant for folding paper in book binding. I use them as burnishers.
I am excited for the book. I’ve converted to “soft wax”, shellac or linseed oil paint for nearly all finishes. I can finish projects in my basement any time of the year without having to worry about fumes. The easy to fix is also incredibly attractive. Looking forward to the book!
I love the title of that book already: Woodworking Without Plastic
TAKE MY MONEY!!
I, too, am working towards that for different reasons.
Is this 2015 talking? Do it like a recipe book. It will be easier to pick out something to try.
I'll look forward to this.
I've been a vegan for 40 years and a novice hand tool woodworker for the last 6. It's been an interesting journey exploring traditional methods and materials and investigating the alternatives (if there are any). I was pleased to discover Crubber, and that Titebond Hide Glue is animal free, but everything has a cost/benefit ratio when it has a chemical manufacturing process or it comes wrapped in plastic. I know a piece of leather will last a lot longer than a human-made product and will biodegrade in landfill but in the 21st Century our food chain is such an industrial complex that very little could be classed as a by-product anymore.
On the other hand, at my age and with my tiny carbon footprint I can afford to relax a little and just enjoy the woodwork!
The journey continues.
I'm looking forward to the woodworking without plastics book
“You are like a big puppy that pees on the rug all the time.”
Is this damned webcam on again?
Looking forward to the new book on finishing.
I am a huge fan of boiled linseed oil – the "real" stuff – specifically, Tried and True brand. It has zero chemical driers, is as fool-proof of a finish as I have come across, and looks great when dried. Three to five very thin coats, and "Bob's your Uncle", as our cousins from across the pond like to say. I categorically refuse to use the big box/hardware store stuff (usually in a blue can) with heavy metal driers.
If I need something with abrasion and chemical resistance, then I look toward alkyd resin varnish or shellac, depending on the end use. Where I live (New Mexico, USA), shellac is a challenge to use, because of the heat and very low humidity (8% to maybe 20%) during most of the year. Through much trial and lots of errors, I've found that increasing the alcohol significantly works pretty well, so that the shellac has time to level before all of the alcohol evaporates.
It's a good thing you're not looking for affirmation because this isn't one. I am looking forward to being able to learn about alternatives to modern finishes and glues though. It begs the question, why did these products fall by the wayside?
Hi Kurt - having worked as a commercial finisher, why = time and money. The first spraying lacquers utilised the huge redundant stockpiles of nitro from WWI armaments manufacturing, dovetailing with mass production of consumables from cars to furnishings. Since then it’s been a race to the bottom = speed of application + short drying times + minimal performance. Anything we buy are crumbs from the table of mass manufacturing. And the holy grail of the single perfect finish? Definitely a myth. I choose a finish that is least compromised for that making process and use of object while avoiding known toxins. I like my liver - it comes in handy.
You mention turning back the clock to1935. I think you used that date as a general date for pre chemical 'revolution'. What I mean is, are there significant differences in finishes from say, 1800 to 1930? Or, are you just saying 1935 is the inflection point?
Daninmaine
Whatever the new book becomes, you may not name it 'The Anarchist .....', because you're exhausted of trying to explain the concept of what you mean by that term. But it seems to me it would be an appropriate title. We need to get away from the plastics and chemicals from these mega chemical and plastic companies that have done tremendous harm to our water and food supply with nothing more than a slap on the wrist once and a while because of the power they wield politically. And, most of the time, the older products are superior, and these companies spend so much effort to patent and then to convince you their materials are revolutionary, and you must use them.
Daninmaine
Except lead. They used a lot of lead in paint before the 30s. Is it natural? Yeah. Is it good for you to be rubbing your hands on the arms of the stick chair with 1940s lead paint all over it? Maybe not.
I don’t think so. But it does contain metallic evaporators. Maybe not great to be touching. Once cured there’s no issue. Or use Allbäck boiled linseed oil. The dryers are less than 1% manganese salt and a couple of acids. Or use raw linseed oil.
Very good point. I wouldn't want to be mixing or handling uncured paint with lead compounds. Does 'boiled' linseed oil still have lead acetate in it?
It’s something when a college prof starts instituting dress code.
Many times history records the "Miss Fits" as those who made significant changes.
I'm on board. I already try to use low-VOC finishes as much as possible.
Nice! I'm always eager to find safe products for my students (kids) to use!
very excited about that new book!
In a pinch, you can get a pretty thick piece of bone from a craft store in the form of a "bone folder" (or scorer) meant for folding paper in book binding. I use them as burnishers.
I am excited for the book. I’ve converted to “soft wax”, shellac or linseed oil paint for nearly all finishes. I can finish projects in my basement any time of the year without having to worry about fumes. The easy to fix is also incredibly attractive. Looking forward to the book!