I am actually in the process of my first attempt at a breadboard end. I have made a new oak top for an old (obviously handmade, not manufactured) pine trestle table I acquired secondhand with two matching benches. I have cut the tenons and mortises, draw boring is next. I was thinking of using oak dowels and wedging with walnut for contrast. Any tips on how to go about it would be so appreciated. Drill press, mill or other? Type of bit? Hole spacing and layout? Dowel size?
If there's any guidance out there on those details, I haven't seen it (or retained it). Oak pegs are always best for drawboring. In a furniture situation, I'm not going to use a heavy offset for the drawbores. A 1/16" or so.
No need to wedge the pegs. I think that will only open the door to trouble.
When I drill the "bores" I use a hand drill or cordless. Usually I use a 1/4" bradpoint for a clean hole. Sometimes 1/4" is a little small for big tables. So I might go up to 5/16".
I generally space pegs like I space nails. I use a an outstretched hand (about 7"-8") for spacing.
To accommodate wood movement the center hole in the tenon is left alone. The other holes through the tenon need to be opened up a bit with a rasp to allow some movement. You have to be careful not to affect the drawbore offset.
After fussing with all this with breadboards, I now understand why many people skip them or just nail the suckers on.
I'm working on my "Forever" workbench -- Holtzapffel), and it's great practice in living with my own humanity. (Especially the well repaired hole in the front where I mistakenly measured the wrong distance for a vice screw.) I've decided just this morning, that that patch will be an excellent reminder to not only measure twice, but to consult the plans at least once.
I am actually in the process of my first attempt at a breadboard end. I have made a new oak top for an old (obviously handmade, not manufactured) pine trestle table I acquired secondhand with two matching benches. I have cut the tenons and mortises, draw boring is next. I was thinking of using oak dowels and wedging with walnut for contrast. Any tips on how to go about it would be so appreciated. Drill press, mill or other? Type of bit? Hole spacing and layout? Dowel size?
Hi Katherine,
If there's any guidance out there on those details, I haven't seen it (or retained it). Oak pegs are always best for drawboring. In a furniture situation, I'm not going to use a heavy offset for the drawbores. A 1/16" or so.
No need to wedge the pegs. I think that will only open the door to trouble.
When I drill the "bores" I use a hand drill or cordless. Usually I use a 1/4" bradpoint for a clean hole. Sometimes 1/4" is a little small for big tables. So I might go up to 5/16".
I generally space pegs like I space nails. I use a an outstretched hand (about 7"-8") for spacing.
To accommodate wood movement the center hole in the tenon is left alone. The other holes through the tenon need to be opened up a bit with a rasp to allow some movement. You have to be careful not to affect the drawbore offset.
After fussing with all this with breadboards, I now understand why many people skip them or just nail the suckers on.
It wasn't hubris that doomed Icarus, it was using crappy glue.
I'm working on my "Forever" workbench -- Holtzapffel), and it's great practice in living with my own humanity. (Especially the well repaired hole in the front where I mistakenly measured the wrong distance for a vice screw.) I've decided just this morning, that that patch will be an excellent reminder to not only measure twice, but to consult the plans at least once.
That table is such a lovely design. I've built one (and gave it away)... It might be time to build one for myself.
I love the chamfers on the M&T joints.